I do a lot of sports, and there a lot of sports I don’t do. The sport that I don’t do and don’t really ever plan on doing is climbing. ‘Fraid of heights and ‘fraid of dyin’. Other sports on my bucket list, which I have just not gotten around to yet, include downhill skiing, scuba diving, and now paddleboarding. Would that I had world enough and time, these coy mistresses would not continue to elude me. Carpe diem.
Then there are those sports I only get to do a few times a year–surfing, kayaking, cross-country skiing–because the weather and geography gods, hands wringing together gleefully, deem it so. The last time I went surfing was Christmas ’09 (it pains me to type that), and the surf rental and wave nymphs seem to be conspiring as well.
But kayaking I get to do at least once a year. Because at least once a year I head home to Little Rhody to see the fam, inhale some clam chowda, and hit the water. A high school friend of mine, an avid kayaker, is always up for an epic kayak adventure. Two summers ago we paddled to Greene Island from the Edgewood Yacht Club and collected shells on a shipwreck of an island. Last year we explored the nooks and crannies of the the Great Swamp.
This summer it was Point Judith Pond, a saltwater collection across the way from the Block Island Ferry. (Now in hi-speed! Only half an hour!)
We put in at the boat launch and paddled our way northward, hugging the middle-west of the pond after ducking underneath the bridge.
We gave the quahoggers plenty of berth, as they were busy with their rakes, and floating buckets, digging up some bi-valve mollusks for dinner or sale. I wouldn’t know the difference.
The water was just a few inches deep, and we took our time, picking up shells with the kind of enthusiasm usually reserved for elementary school children, which we felt like, at that moment.
We were concerned, at the beginning of our shell-collecting adventure, with razor clam shells, so named for their elongated , somewhat elliptical shapes. After that we were digging with our fingers and coming up with scallop shells, mussel shells, and quahog shells. Almost all of them empty but pristine.
Then we headed for the shallow, wild blue yonder, with islands smattered here and there and boats passing on the western edge because by now the eastern edge was only inches deep.
We paddled past a family picnicking on pizza and a huge fruit tray, and they were kind enough to share in that special way only natives know how: “Come ova heyah and git sum pizza now.” We had packed a full lunch of oversized spring rolls from the farmer’s market in Pawtuxet and a special treat for when our journey was almost over: cheap champagne and cranberry juice, with which to drink poinsettias. Christmas drinking in July for all our hard work. More on that later.
So we paddled, paddled, paddled, fighting this current, sailing with that current, laughing giddily at the beauty of the day, the simplicity of it all. We
spotted the killer beach house we would never buy, all 500 square feet of it, with its own breakwater and dock. Asking price? Just over half a million. We snaked through some inlets, passing yachts and Donzis and killer homes, the kind where you could just wade out and dig for dinner. Sigh.
We zigged when the rest of the boats zagged and landed in a southerly cove, with nothing but a few houses and some egrets and osprey.
Osprey were continually flying overhead, with their massive wingspans, and at one point we could see one bringing another prime stick to the nest. We put our ornithologist caps on and just watched the aviary dances around us. S took some photos and marveled, and not necessarily in that order.
We lally-gogged our way through the quiet cove, talking in old-school library whispers, and feeling very, very lucky. And then….mud and a dead end. The dead end marked the portage, which we knew was coming. S wanted to turn around and head back. But I knew such a move would spoil the magic of the day, the sense of discovery, and the challenge of getting a kayak, and a person and a very important cooler full of cheap champagne to the other side. Plus, there would be no Poinsettia Island if we turned back now.
There was no getting out of the kayak because the mud was feet deep and smelled strongly of sulfur–not very friendly. So I began pelvic lurching the kayak through the mud, arching the back forward and, using the pelvis as a fulcrum, forcing the kayak forward, about six inches at a time. Still, progress was being made. S looked on from twenty feet away, still convinced that turning around was the better option. But we could see and hear the cars passing on the road that marked our portage. I was not giving up Poinsettia Island.
The pelvis lurching was a great ab workout, so I’m expecting that six-pack from my 30s to re-emerge from the fridge any second now.
The lurching also left a trail, better known as an imprint.
The only solid ground was reeds attached to mussels, and I faltered a bit heave-hoeing myself onto those marine hillocks. Suction almost stole one of my sandals, but stubborness prevailed and using the muddy paddle I coaxed the kayak up and onto the closest thing to land I’d seen in 20 minutes. S was motivated by my success and followed suit. We were on our way.
We dragged the kayaks through ten-foot high reeds and eventually onto the asphalt. I have never been so happy to see asphalt in my life, except for that one time on cross-country skis. We scoped out the other side, noted the poison ivy growing everywhere except where we had been (how lucky!) and made a plan to portage the boats over to the rocky section of beach instead of plunging once again into the mud. The second half of the portage was downright cushy as compared to the first.
After re-entering the water, we returned to that blissful state we had known while collecting shells. And Poinsetta Island was just ahead. We paddled with our legs out of the water so the mud would dry.
We shorelined for Poinsettia Island, being careful not to alert the neighbors (probably landowners) to our arrival. We attacked the champagne and spring rolls, and laughed at our good fortune. Then we went for a swim in the warm, quahog-filled waters, enjoying the sunshine and full bellies and slight light-headedness.
We were six miles into our eight-mile journey by then, and during that long rest period someone had hung barbells onto my arms. Drag. Actually, we dragged our fingers through the shallow water, and listened to the feedback: unnnhhhh, nnnnvvvv, ththththuh, nuhhhhh.
Stupid English phonology. None of those is right. Think dull roar meets trickle. Back at the boat launch, we were sad and glad the journey was over. But! Still friends:
And it was over, six hours later. Favorite quote of the day, directed to me during the portage: “I can’t hear what you’re saying over your big brass balls clanging together.” Not brass balls. Just determination.













August 15, 2011 at 5:35 pm
kayaks…
Kayaking Point Judith Pond « SheSpoke. The soul of sports…
August 21, 2011 at 12:55 am
I’ve learned to row, swim, sail, kayak, clam, etc. on the slightly larger Ninigret Pond and am ready to try Point Judith Pond with family this upcoming Labor Day. I enjoyed your story. (Don’t think we’ll try the mud route, though.)
Bob
August 21, 2011 at 3:42 pm
Hey, Bob. Thanks for your note. I am definitely going to hit Ninigret the next time I’m home visiting family. I would absolutely avoid the mud route in Point Judith Pond.
August 21, 2011 at 3:54 pm
Hi ?,
I think I saw your name on a blog refering to an injury you managed for yourself. I don’t recall what it was.
Have you been in Ninigret Pond? It’s about a hundred acres larger than Point Judith Pond. The south side along the barrier beach is shallow, but quite good for paddling. I start at the south and west corner putting in at the little white lighthouse. (I know the owners.) Paddling westward close to the shore, you may see a wide variety of birds. Be sure to poke in the various little coves! We saw 7 snowy egrets in one of the coves. There are oyster beds in the narrows. You can usually paddle over them, but they can be a nuissance. I go to the left or right of them. I could tell you more sometime.
Bob
August 30, 2011 at 11:12 pm
Hi, Bob-
You can just call me shespoke. And I did injure myself two years ago with a little hope from a drunk driver who is still on the lam. He will get his someday.
Those aviary pockets along Ninigret sound awesome. Alas, I live in Colorado now and only make it home once or twice a year and in which I shove a kayaking adventure in. The oyster beds in the narrows sound fun but a pain.
Let me ask you a question: Have you or anyone you know paddled out to Block Island and is it as crazy and arduous as it sounds? I’m intrigued by the possibility.
August 31, 2011 at 8:38 pm
Hi Ms. Spoke,
I have a lot of respect for that (Charlestown) breechway and ocean. Oceans can kick up quickly, as you know. Personally, I wouldn’t attempt it, but that’s me. I’ve been in Block Island Sound in various small boats, up to perhaps 25′. I never strayed far from shore with my Hobie 16 when “out front.”
My son and I paddled from Mom’s (at the aforementioned lighthouse) into Green Hill Pond and back. After 4 hours of paddling, we felt it. Block would be 3 to 4 times that time and distance and in waves and open water.
B
August 31, 2011 at 8:39 pm
PS Several of us will be in Quonnie this weekend and hope to to Point Judith Pond.
September 2, 2011 at 3:08 am
Bob-
Please check back in and let me know how your jaunt through Point Judith Pond went.
Also, do you really think that paddling to Block Island would take at least twelve hours?
September 2, 2011 at 3:13 am
How steadily and at what rate of speed can you paddle through 12-13 miles of uncertain wind and waves?? How about contacting the Kayak Center in Charlestown (or elsewhere) and ask if they can give advice based on experience. http://www.kayakcentre.com/rentals.htm
September 10, 2011 at 3:20 am
Bob–how did kayaking Pt. Judith Pond go?
September 11, 2011 at 12:48 am
Great! We got there mid-morning; two brothers, brother-in-law, a nephew. Very windy and incoming tide all morning. We paddled down Long Pond (?) and back out again, then to a small island with nothing on it but a picnic table. We pretty much tried to stay out of the channel to avoid bigger boats and went south far enough to see the state pier and private lighthouse on the Galillee side. Going back was a breeze, of course with the wind at our backs and tide flowing with us.
The day before we paddled about 3 hours on Ninigret, the day before that we biked to Watch Hill from Powaget Ave. Good exercise! We could see more on Point Judith Pond another trip. Lots of egrets, cranes herons, and kingfishers.
October 4, 2011 at 3:28 am
[...] about SheSpoke’s epic kayak adventure in Rhode Island this summer. LD_AddCustomAttr("AdOpt", "1"); LD_AddCustomAttr("Origin", [...]
November 8, 2011 at 12:46 am
[...] as I remembered my recent, awesome kayaking adventures last fall at Worden Swamp and this summer at Point Judith Pond. How amazing would it be to end each day instead of being limited to a bike ride or one of those [...]